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Vegan pastrami, blue corn matzo ball soup, pimiento cheese knishes — the offerings at these restaurants are anything but traditional.
Rye Deli & Drink
25 S. Halsted St., Greektown
The twist Deli favorites with Middle Eastern and Texan influences
The skinny Billy Caruso has dipped into Jerusalem’s culinary melting pot, using, for example, labneh as a bagel spread (try the thyme and sea salt bagel slathered with charred strawberry and honey labneh) and making brik, a Tunisian pastry filled with potato and egg. His Austin, Texas, roots are on display, too, most notably with the pastrami, which he makes like the barbecue joints by giving a whole brisket (not just the flat) an extra-long smoke over oak and applewood. Try it in the Reuben with sauerkraut and Gruyère ($16).
Must order The matzo ball soup ($13), made with blue corn matzo balls, loaded with shredded chicken and veggies, and topped with a radish and herb salad
Jeff & Judes
1024 N. Western Ave., Humboldt Park
Deli Spin Links
The twist Southern takes on deli classics, plus a standout bakery program
The skinny Ursula Siker grew up in Los Angeles, a city with a rich deli culture. She named this spot after her parents and took inspiration from their backgrounds (her dad comes from a Jewish family in Pittsburgh and her stepmom is from North Carolina). That means bites like a sweet potato and pimiento cheese knish ($8) alongside a thick corned beef Reuben on housemade marble rye ($18). Don’t miss the clever baked goods: Siker transforms her cinnamon challah into bread pudding ($8) and fills rye hamantaschen with cream cheese, red onion, and dill and crusts them with everything bagel spice ($7).
Must order The fried chicken sandwich ($10), an übercrisp thigh brined in buttermilk and pickling spices and dredged in matzo. It’s finished with mayo and bread-and-butter pickles and served on a potato bun.
Sam & Gertie’s
1309 W. Wilson Ave., Uptown
Deli Spin Link
The twist Vegan versions (you heard right!) of deli staples
The skinny Andy Kalish may have named his restaurant after his grandparents, but the place is not exactly old-school. He re-creates traditional deli offerings like whitefish, corned beef, and chopped liver using beans, veggies, and other plant-based ingredients. Take his “pastrami,” which you can get with mustard on rye ($12.75) or as a Reuben (the Levin, $14.75); he combines wheat gluten with three types of beans (white, red, and garbanzo) to add texture and color, plus a secret seasoning blend that imparts a smoky, peppery bite.
Must order The Fishman ($13.75), a tangy smoked “whitefish” salad (made with hearts of palm, vegan mayo and cream cheese, green onions, and dill) on an onion bun with lettuce, tomato, onions, and capers
Today, new vegan deli Galioto’s opened in New York City, serving plant-based versions of Italian deli classics. Created by the team behind popular vegan restaurant Jajaja Plantas Mexicana, the deli will specialize in a variety of sandwiches, including Impossible meat-based The Meatball Parm, mozzarella-stuffed The Eggplant, and The Portobello featuring dairy-free feta cheese. Galioto’s also offers a selection of pasta dishes and sides such as marinated artichokes, grilled eggplant, and giardiniera. For the morning crowd, a selection of vegan pastries made by Brooklyn-based French bakery L’imprimerie and coffee by local shop Nueva York are also available. In addition to a food menu, the deli sells a variety of Italian pantry items made by local NYC businesses.
Veganizing NYC Traditions
The idea for Galioto’s—located on Mulberry street in the historic Little Italy neighborhood—was born out of the COVID-19 pandemic and is meant to evoke the feeling of classic Italian delis of NYC’s past. “This whole concept came together because of the pandemic. It’s based around grab and go and it’s pretty on track for what we wanted it to be,” co-owner Nima Garos told Eater. “This is what Mulberry Street looked like in the 1920s. It was all one big marketplace.”
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